Spain's Return to Normal - 'When will bars re-open?'

As the world prepares to slowly re-open after months of quarantine, many people are eager to know when they will be able to return to normal life.

In my hometown along the Jersey shore, the most common concern is ‘when will the beaches reopen?’. This is perhaps a testament to the importance of tourism in the area, and to the active lifestyles the locals live. But here in Spain, the most common question throughout all of quarantine has been - ‘when will bars reopen’?

Scenes of metal blinds closing the bars of Madrid's city center

A country obsessed with beer? Or with socialization?

To anyone unfamiliar with Spanish customs, this may paint the picture of a country of alcoholics eager to end a two month corona-prohibition. But as the country with the highest density of bars in the world (260,000 in total, about 1 for every 165 Spaniards) bars play an important cultural role distinct from that of other countries.

To go to a bar at 10am in the United States would be unheard of, but in Spain, bares, cafeterias and tabernas can provide breakfast and lunch along with the evening's drinks. Even highway rest areas, which in America would be populated with McDonalds and Domino's Pizza, supply travelers with bar essentials - a pincho de tortilla1 and cafe con leche2.

Contrary to the common conception of a bar as being exclusive to the later hours of the day and alcoholic beverages, bar life in Spain can take many forms. The traditional experience that an American may expect (late night drinks with friends or a rowdy night out) is just one of the scenes common to Spanish bars. Others may include; a quiet coffee sipped over a newspaper, a game of dominoes among retirees, a convivial place to watch a fútbol game or a mid afternoon merienda3 shared by parent and child. The bars of Spain embody the social nature of the culture.

Bars hold the key to Spain’s heart

In fact, bars hold such a dear place in the hearts of Spaniards that the phrases el bar de abajo, el bar de toda la vida or el bar del barrio4 have become terms of endearment in the castellano lexicon. They are as much a part of the community as a place to enjoy a beer. I would often forget my keys while living in Barcelona, coming from a town where doors are left open, but I never worried as my host mother left a spare set in the bar downstairs. A study conducted by Coca-Cola found that this was not an anomaly particular to my host family, but that rather a third of Spaniards interviewed would leave the keys to their house with the waiter of their local bar.

Spaniards are undoubtedly social, the majority of their lives are lived en las calles5, and the omnipresent bars represent the perfect setting for a plethora of social activities. They are so involucrated in the culture that they are commonly portrayed in pop culture, such as television series, as a main setting, similar to the coffee shop in Friends or Seinfeld. There is rarely an episode of Cuentame como pasó (a nearly 20 year old program that chronicles Spanish life from the 60s to present day) that does not include at least a few scenes in a bar.

Not to mention that Spanish bars have long been the sites of intellectual exchange, inspiration and the general creation of the country’s cultural patrimony. They are where novels have been written but also the sites in which the plot of novels take place. Picasso was known to frequent Barcelona’s Els Quatre Gats and even had his first exhibition on the premises. Hemingway had his fair share of favorite spots in Madrid as well. Spanish writer Valle Inclán even said that his own frequented bar “has had more influence on Spanish literature and contemporary art than two or three universities and academies”.

It is clear that bars themselves serve as concentrated vessels of spanish culture not only in terms of social elements but also in terms of the legs of iberian ham, fútbol, and plates of tapas that lie within their walls. One might think that Iberian ham is the hallmark of Spanish cuisine, but I would argue that a well poured caña6 (something regarded as sacred when done right, blasphemous when not) is just as celebrated.

¿Cuándo reabrirán los bares?

Quarantine has forced Spain to feel not just the absence of their afternoon hangout, but the absence of a part of Spanish identity. The preservation of this identity is even more important today, in an age where the major European city centers are being lost to international franchises. Golden arches, green mermaids and other general signs of impending apocalypse for local businesses are becoming more common in areas of Madrid’s center such as La plaza del Sol than are Madrileño bars.

Phase 1 : Opening of terraces to 30% capacity

Two days into the phase 1 of reopening of Spain, I am happy to say I have enjoyed my first caña, complete with 2 meters of distancing between tables in the pure bliss of a shaded plaza by Conde Duque. I unfortunately could not enjoy my complementary tapa of olives. I neglected to bring anything to clean my hands with and bathrooms as of now are still closed, so while patrons are allowed to enjoy their favorite establishments, they are restricted to the outside.

According to the guidelines of phase 1, Spaniards are allowed to exercise and stroll within 1km of their house only between the hours of 8pm and 11pm (there is also a brief morning window starting at 6am, but let's be real i have never woken up for that one). However, there are a few exceptions to this rule, we are allowed to be on the streets when going to the grocery store, the pharmacy, a local business to pick up essentials, or you guessed it, to a bar. As far as the Spanish government is concerned, you may go to any bar at any time anywhere in the city. If instead of a beer you need to get a daily fix of endorphins, your run will need to take place in the set time periods, and just 1 kilometer of where you live.

In comparison, Belgium, which has now opened some businesses, gyms and schools, says that until well into the summer restaurants and bars will remain closed. It is evident that Spain would not stand for that arrangement, and has happily enjoyed returning to their neighborhoods social hubs after months of isolation and confinement.

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1 Slice of Spanish potato and onion omelette, generally served with a small slice of bread.

2 Coffee with milk

3 Mid-afternoon snack. Something sweet to hold you over until 4 4 4 Spain’s infamously late dinners.

4 The bar downstairs, the same bar as always (literally translated: the bar ‘of our whole life’), the neighborhood bar

5 In the streets

6 An essential vocabulary word for anyone wanting to order a draught beer in Spain. Priced at about 1.50 euros, this small glass of beer usually comes with a free tapa on the side.